2. February 25, 2013, 7:50 am. I wonder if you have objection there? My only modification was to use the existing drain – this meant it was flush with the plywood subfloor. I’m in Western New York and it gets rather cold in the winter. Bill Abrahms Once it’s rock solid take a level and make sure all areas where the tile will be placed on the cement board don’t have any peaks or valleys. You’ve solved my biggest nightmare about “this old house.”. Otherwise the water will “pond” beneath the tiles and produce mold and mildew. Pop That stinks Tori and I’m sorry to hear you had a bad experience with a contractor. So now I have it all over my brand new bathtubs and floors. Do I need to use mesh tape for this transition? I had to have the thick vinyl liner to make the inspector happy, so I just did the whole thing the ‘old way’, David W Now if the tub was on an outside wall it brings up a ton of other questions. It was a “luxury shower” built almost 20 years ago, but it didn’t even experience 20 years of constant use. Also did you get prefabbed glass doors for it or did you have them custom made? I was starting to freak out. In the most recent shower, our curb looked like this: Drain is in place – top surface about 2″ above the plywood. Is this good idea? If you’d like you can send me some pictures via email. I didn’t originally intend to build it by hand. For more casual sampling, have a look at this complete list of all posts since the beginning of time or download the mobile app. Mr. Money Mustache Ever since this post I’ve been researching on doing this for my house. I’ve installed Durock Cement Board in my shower/tub surround. He is using hardibacker on the latest one, which is water resistant but not waterproof. You can also wipe down the curtain with a little practice and do the tub or pan as well. This particular shower is on the 3rd floor of our townhouse, so I don’t know if it’s the settling of the building causing this or what – the major gaps are happening on the tile that’s on the party wall only, not the walls that run perpendicular to the party wall). The last few posts about this bathroom remodeling project discussed hanging cement board to the bathtub wood studs. In shower area put extra 2x4s sideway to existingn use construction glue and decking screws. Feel free to post your pictures over on our private Facebook group, you’ll have to join and I’ll approve you. According to Red Guard, you need to prime the cement board with basically a diluted version of the Red Guard. total nightmare. I understand they are virtually everywhere in the soil. Let this first coat of RedGard dry until the panels appear red in color. How did you attach it to the plywood sub-floor (tape, glue)? What is the best way to transition between the green board drywall and Durock? Send me an email at [email protected]rtutor.com and we can talk more about your options. Hydro Ban and Ardex 8+9 are great products as well. Thanks, Cathy. Answer. April 14, 2013, 6:36 pm. Thanks. A lot of paints have additives that help ward off mold and mildew. Hopefully you did that and it only looks like it’s done the wrong way in the photo. I’m redoing my shower, and put a vapor barrier behind the cement boards on the walls> I was going to do the shower pan with slightly sloped mortar base and then water proof it with Red Gard and bring the Red Gard up about on foot on to the cement board walls, would that be ok, or do I have to be concerned about mold where I basically have a vapor barrier sandwiched cement board, or should I just Re Gard the bottom of the shower and the seams between bottom and walls? Can you use redgard on shower pan instead of hot mopping. This leaves a smoother surface, which I can paint over. Will need to pay for the concrete work (bad back and I’m 74 years old). All seams should be sealed with alkalli resistant mesh and embedded in thinset mortar. BS. Thanks! It’s mind-blowing, but awesome if you’re on the receiving end. I find I learn better hands on and it gives me an opportunity to practice a bit with the tools and a starting point for evaluating the many (often conflicting) tutorials on the web. But it doesn’t have to be this way, especially if you’re thinking of remodeling your bathroom. I am in the process today of demolishing an old school shower built this way — concrete pan, rubbery/vinyl looking liner, tiles, etc. Currently there is a moldy shower that a previous owner dragged home from one of the big box stores. Water can find the smallest space in a bathtub or shower space and create a big stinky problem over time. How much of a concern is this. Otherwise, the paint job of the adjacent wall next to the tile will look less than crappy (and we mean this in the nicest sense). And, if you eliminate the middle bolted-on section, there will be no threads to screw on the top/grate (the threads are on/in the middle screwed/bolted section). Actually I was just told of a great way to fix that issue. Based off the recommendation, we hired a pretty seasoned tile guy to do the tiling and shower in our bathroom. I’m finding Hydro Ban Is almost double $$ in my area. Is it ok to have Drywall compound underneath the tile? Learn how your comment data is processed. In the post where you had the backer board going up, you stated it should go above the lip of the tub. By the time you’re done with doing all this your bathtub space will look like the following picture. Lol. Is there a reason you ignored this? We love hearing about your projects! It’s preferable to have the backer board sit flush or over the lip. December 21, 2012, 8:38 am. I can’t really tell what kind of drain you’re using, other than adjustable. Yeah, with those 3-piece dealies you can discard the middle section with the bolts (since there is no rubber that needs clamping in this case). December 21, 2012, 11:56 am, I just recently learned how to and did this myself. Not a call back 1. Required fields are marked *. Any idea about glass? Since I can use red guard on the green oars above the tile what type of vapor barrier do you recommend. I will be using DUROCK on the surround. The most useful comments are those written with the goal of learning from or helping out other readers – after reading the whole article and all the earlier comments. I personally haven’t had any issues with tiles becoming loose. Honest Bob Using your method do you just not use the collar piece to allow any water that gets through the tile or grout to drain down the weep holes? What product should we use to attach to the ceiling trusses that will be firm enough to hold the tile and not sag and at the same time be easy to work with and waterproof. How much red guard do I need? Hello – Thanks for this information. I’ll 2nd the recommendation for John Bridge’s book. Thanks! It was pretty easy actually. Hi, I’m redoing my shower. Those are interesting.. What are the pros and cons of Redguard vs. a product like Ditra (the orange fleece-coated plastic sheets they use on Holmes on Homes)? Ever figure this out? I know this is hella late but I know how you feel. Thanks so much. I just built my first shower pan too, mostly because I didn’t want to pay the $100+ price tag for prefab crap. We have a full bath and plan to tile the shower on our own. Nice questions Bill, sorry if I got to this after the thin-set dried!! Also – you realize you’ve opened yourself to a grouting/tiling 101 article request now, MMM? Can Redguard be applied to the green board underneath? 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